Friday, 24 April 2026

Samarkand - Day 1 PM Part 1

Our visit this afternoon is to the Shah-i-Zinda necropolis which contains over 20 buildings including mausoleums and other ritual buildings built in the 11-15th and 19th centuries.  The name Shah-i-Zinda 'the Living King' is connected with the legend that a cousin of the prophet Mohammed is buried here.  Qutham ibn Abbas came to Samarkand with the Arab invasion in the 7th century to preach Islam and, according to one legend, was decapitated during prayer whereupon he picked up his severed head and walked to the deep well known as the Garden of Paradise, where he still resides.  

I’d seen pictures of the place online and was really excited to be seeing it – unfortunately the place was rammed with visitors, who no doubt were similarly excited/disappointed as I was.  The other problem I had was the buildings were all close together so there is no possible to "step back" to get a good perspective.  Never mind, they were exquisite and if I can give a little info on any I will, but otherwise just enjoy the colours!


The Grand Entrance Arch

 




This sweet young girl was delighted to have her picture taken and it is very refreshing here to be able to photograph people quite freely - with prior permission of course.



The interior dome of the Shirin Beka Oka Mausoleum.


Ali Nasafi Mausoleum built 1360-80.


You can see here how narrow the street is and although mostly the buildings look like their either warped or falling over, the one on the right really is bowed.




The Ali Nesefi Mausoleum again.


The exquisite ceiling of another mausoleum - possibly that of Amira Burunduka (depends on whether you can trust Google image reverse look up or not!)




Sadly there was no time or space to compose shots; it really was a case of snap and hope.



Burial tombs.


Funnily enough there is an almost identical image to this on the internet, but without the hoards.



This guy was minding his own business (on his phone) but snapped to attention when I asked for a picture.

Another beautiful ceiling, this time it's in the Kusam ibn Abbas Mausoleum.


And the prayer niche in the same mausoleum.







Interior shots of the Tuman Oqo Mausoleum, built in 1404 by the highly influential and favourite wife of Emperor Amir Temur (more of him to come) and although not highly coloured it is none the less magnificent.














Blue majolica tombstone but unfortunately no details of its occupant are known.




These last 3 were taken on my phone to see if I could get more of the building in and with less distortion.




Looking south west from the entrance, this is the famous Registan Square which is described as the highlight of the trip, we're going there after dark tonight and will revisit in daylight tomorrow.


This beautiful lady was wandering around in flowing robes and kindly agreed to pose for me.


It must be hot, Farik has turned his brim up.