From Tamerlane's Mausoleum we then drove to the Ulugh Beg Observatory. Beg was a grandson of Tamerlane and notable for his work in astronomy and astronomy-related mathematics such as trigonometry and spherical geometry.
I've mentioned already how important Uzbeks consider bread and here was no exception, there were several stalls selling loaves but interestingly they were wrapped in what looked like carpets to keep warm.
Farik bought one for us all to try but I declined as I didn't know where the carpet had been!
The observatory is on the top of a hill and this young groom and his even younger bride were here for photos. Farik said they were probably no more than 15 and 12 respectively and without doubt Lyuli - a historically nomadic, marginalized
group settled primarily in Uzbekistan, Tajikistan, and Kyrgyzstan. Believed to
have originated from the Indian subcontinent, they share distant ties with
European Roma but have maintained a distinct Central Asian culture, language,
and heavily marginalized social status.
The Lyuli are one of the most disadvantaged groups in Central Asia. They frequently face severe discrimination and live on the absolute margins of Uzbek society. A major systemic issue is that many members of the community lack formal identity papers and birth certificates, which bars them from accessing state social services, healthcare, and formal employment.
Eventually they moved away and I was able to get my shot of Ulugh Beg.
The observatory was built in 1420s and originally contained a massive, underground astronomical sextant or quadrant used to measure the positions of stars and planets which made it one of the most advanced scientific centres before the invention of the telescope. After Beg's death in 1449 (he was assassinated by his own son) the site was destroyed but rediscovered by a Russian archaeologist in 1908.
It was a bit of an anti climax just looking down a tunnel.
I'd been expecting a view of the milky way !
The onsite museum was built in the 1970s in keeping with other important buildings.
This chap was sitting around inside and I just liked his hat.
We then visited the Afrasiab Museum which houses rare frescoes are known as the "Paintings of the Ambassadors," a 7th-century masterpiece of Sogdian art. The murals were accidentally uncovered in 1965 during the construction of a new road through the ancient Afrasiab mound. They depict a vibrant reception of foreign dignitaries by the local Sogdian king
Then took a short walk to the original site of discovery.
After that we visited a factory which is famous for preserving 2,000 year old traditions of hand-woven silk and wool carpets. which produces hand crafted silk carpets. Employing over 400 local artisans, the factory uses only 100% natural dyes derived from sources like pomegranate peels, walnut husks, and indigo. Some carpets take 18+ months to make and naturally are very expensive.
Another lovely hat.
Driving past Registan Square again, I'm actually starting to wonder if we'll ever stop and visit it.
Tonight we have a special dinner lined up - we're visiting a local family where we'll see a demonstration of how to cook the famous dish Pilov - yum!
Judging by how many tables could fit in the courtyard, this family is well used to hosting tourists. Everything was a riot of colour.
Traditional sweets and snacks.
Fortunately we had Western tables and chairs to sit on and didn't have to fold ourselves up in this tapchan.
The owner whose name escapes me. She shares the house(s) with an extended family and her sister-in-law was helping do the cooking.
The core ingredients are carrots, onions, fatty
lamb cuts and long-grain rice. The first
steps are to peel and julienne the carrots into strips. Then fry the meat and
carrots in oil or lamb fat. This creates a rich aromatic base called a
"zirvak".
The next step is layering uncooked rice on top of the zirvak, then add water and simmer until the rice is fully cooked. This layering technique allows flavours to meld together, while keeping the rice fluffy and separate.
Serving up the food, everyone was given huge portions. I felt a bit bad as a meat free version had been made for me (and another veggie) but I don't trust the hygiene standards in people's homes (especially as there was no sign of hand washing between fiddling with gas pipes and holding meat) so politely declined.
Some of the lovely traditional costumes on display.
